A tours operator organises visits to one of the largest favelas in Rio; Rocinha, which is located on a hill near the wealthy Ipanema neighbourhood.
By motortaxi, our group made its way to the top of the hill before beginning the walk down through the narrow, winding alleyways. The ride up is an experience in itself, holding on tight while the driver zagzags between the other vehicles we passed in the steep curves.
A favela operates at arms length from the central government, therefore basic services, security and the judicial system are administered independently by the group who controls the favela. Many people patrol the area and there are countless eyes on its inhabitants and visitors alike.
Living conditions are cramped, humid and garbage abounds. The lower down the hill the housing is the cheaper the rent, due to the downward flow of water and garbage. The eyes and faces of people testify to the hardships of living in these social conditions.
Cheap rent and proximity to the city center, where most of the inhabitants work, is what keeps the majority of its people inside. The area is filled with contradictions, it's not unusual to cross people speaking on Iphones or wearing expensive clothing and the neighborhood even contains a McDonald's. It is said that millions of dollars transit through favelas every week, majoritarily from the illicit drug trade.
The Brazillian government has begun a process of reunification and is slowly taking control of Rio's favelas. The process is often difficult and rife with bloodshed but now Rocinha is well on its way to becoming a more integrated part of Rio, with improved security, hygiene and education services. Hopefully, recent efforts will lead to better opportunities for its people.
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