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Friday, March 23, 2012

COQUIMBO / VALLE DE ELQUI, CHILE



There was something exciting about the historic, raggedy port town of Coquimbo. We enjoyed our stay in a simple but interesting hostel, an old colonial mansion which was formerly the French Embassy back when the city was a main trading post. (Hostal Nomade) It looked like everything had been left intact since it was built in the 1800's, including the gardens. (see pictures on their website!)

After a few days we made our way inland, into the Valle de Elqui where the local pisco grape is grown and where many of the table grapes consumed in Canada originate. The lush valley contrasted sharply with the dry barren hills above. The town of Picso Elqui is a gem, and the surrounding valley can easily be explored by bicycle. The ride is entirely downhill, a necessity given the extreme heat and the oppressing sun.

Due to its clear skies, the area is home to countless space observatories and to the most powerful telescopes on the planet. We joined a tour to observe the skies at the Mamalluca observatory, seeing Jupiter and the Moon through a telescope and other planets and the galaxies with just the naked eye. The observatory itself is not a worthwhile attraction and the outing is very touristy, but the skies are truly impressive from he hilltop.

Many people simply visit through day trips from La Serena but its very much worth spending some time in Vecuna and Pisco to fully appreciate the charm of this area.

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