LA PAZ, BOLIVIA

When entering the city of La Paz, located high up in the Andes at a dizzying 3,300 m, the first thing that strikes you are the city's crowded streets filled with vendors selling any type of knockoff clothing imaginable. The frenzy of its downtown creates an immediate level of excitement.

We were told various negative stories of the city relating to security or lack of character but non of them proved to be true. Compact and urban, La Paz ended up having all the right attributes. Its restaurants boasted a cuisine that proved one the best so far. We particularly enjoyed La Coca with its $3 four course lunch menu, La Guinguette a modern French bistro, The Steakhouse for a great JD Steak, La Costilla del Diablo for the one of the best burgers of all time and our afternoon visits to Oliver's travels for a pint and a chat with friendly expats.

La Paz also has a tremendous nightlife, one of the reasons why so many foreigners get stuck there for much longer than they had anticipated. Staying at the Loki Hostel didn't help. Clean, modern but very noisy; after over 10 days of exhausting partying we had to move on to better things.

A weekend side trip to Coroico in the Yungas about two hours from the city revitalised us. A small pleasant town with a tropical climate with coffee and banana plantations is the perfect place to relax. The only down side are the veracious sand flies that come out at dusk and bite pieces of flesh off.

Finally we end with a general warning, Pacenos are "special" drivers. When put behind the wheel in the midst of congested city streets they transform from shy, passive individuals to angry, jittery chauffeurs. Driving in the outskirts, they swerve to the opposite side of the highway, often taking wide curves in the opposite lane of a windy road and keeping that lane for an extended period of time. We could never figure out the reason behind that urge to drive on the opposite side of the road. So if planning to tour the area extensively gather up all your courage and cool nerves or just keep your eyes shut. Better yet, look twice before crossing any intersection, red or green light and if traveling longer distances in the country, take the plane!