CUSCO & SACRED VALLEY, PERU

Arriving in Cusco we were overwhelmed by the intensity of the city's tourism. It was an obvious shock after experiencing the relative tranquility of Bolivia. The constant haggling from vendors and restaurants quickly annoys, it was like nothing else we had seen in South America. Nevertheless, the city is beautiful, featuring grand colonial buildings built above the original rock solid Inca foundations. Cusco also has all the western treats, such as nice restaurants, many bars, nightlife as well as many fast food chains such as Starbucks and McDonald's, for those feeling homesick.

We took a guided tour to visit the surrounding Inca archeological sites, along with a huge group of nearly 30 other people all following the flag raised above our tour guide's head. It only cost about $5 and now we know why, it's an experience best forgotten. The Cafe de La Paz with its friendly waiter as well as the Pariwana Hostel situated in an old mansion with a great central courtyard, provided us with a much needed oasis in this hectic tourist mecca.

Next, we took a short bus ride to Pisac in the Sacred Valley to visit an Inca citadel perched high up on a mountain. The long and arduous six hour hike and the view below were the highlights as opposed to the rather modest ruins above. The town itself is also pleasant during the afternoon once the busloads of tourists have departed from the town square which hosts an elaborate artisanal market. Ulrike's Cafe which has good food and excellent wifi and the Pisac Inn which makes an excellent pisco sour are both recommend.

Our final stop before heading to Machu Pichu was Ollantaytambo, a beautiful town overlooked by a giant fortress build by the Incas. The sheer size of the site, cut within the mountain side, is highly impressive. It's one of the rare sites where Spanish colonizers lost a major battle against the Incas. The town itself has changed little since precolonial days, with stone block houses and a stream running along its major street. We highly recommend spending some time here in what we consider to be the most pleasant stop in the entire Cusco area.