After a two hour boat trip on the river Beni we entered the jungle ready to explore and hopefully get back in shape after spending three days sitting in a river canoe in the Pampas. It was not to be; although we did continuously wonder through the jungle on foot for several hours per day, the mountains of food served to us kept all sense of well being at bay. After 5 days of eating loads of rice, beans, potatoes, and meat, it felt as we could have dumped in the river and floated downstream like logs all the way back to Rurre.
Walks included tracking down the illusive "chanchos salvajes", wild pigs that have proliferated in the forests. The noise and smell of these packs, often numbering more than 100, is impressive and even scary. The guide's eyes lid up when he encountered a pack as he rushed through the jungle, machete in hand, clearing a path and ordering us to a direct halt as we reached it. The packs are often closely followed by a jaguar which was unfortunately always too well hidden to spot.
Our night of camping under little more than a tarp and mosquito net revealed the sounds of the forest, deafening insects and amphibians as well as the site of giant tarantulas peacefully clinging to trees or footpaths. The daytime forest featured monkeys, macaws, and countless other birds. The camping was interrupted when a storm showed up and flooded the area we were in. The ceaseless rain was warm enough not to ruin the walk back to the boat although stepping through the forest barefoot with water ankle high caused us a bit of anxiety.
The tour operator Mashaquipe was above par, accommodations were clean and comfortable, amazing for such a remote spot, and the guides assigned to us were excellent. The organisation hires locals which have a genuine passion for the forest as well as for getting to know their guests.
Be warned of the following, the extreme humidity will dampen anything in your possession, clothes worn during the treks will be so dirty they'll never look or smell the same again. Nevertheless, mosquitoes aren't abundant and there is no malaria in this part of the Amazon.
The fact is we we not ready to leave. The peacefulness of the surroundings and the beauty of the area captured us. We've arranged another date with the Amazon, hopefully crossing paths again shortly in Ecuador.
Walks included tracking down the illusive "chanchos salvajes", wild pigs that have proliferated in the forests. The noise and smell of these packs, often numbering more than 100, is impressive and even scary. The guide's eyes lid up when he encountered a pack as he rushed through the jungle, machete in hand, clearing a path and ordering us to a direct halt as we reached it. The packs are often closely followed by a jaguar which was unfortunately always too well hidden to spot.
Our night of camping under little more than a tarp and mosquito net revealed the sounds of the forest, deafening insects and amphibians as well as the site of giant tarantulas peacefully clinging to trees or footpaths. The daytime forest featured monkeys, macaws, and countless other birds. The camping was interrupted when a storm showed up and flooded the area we were in. The ceaseless rain was warm enough not to ruin the walk back to the boat although stepping through the forest barefoot with water ankle high caused us a bit of anxiety.
The tour operator Mashaquipe was above par, accommodations were clean and comfortable, amazing for such a remote spot, and the guides assigned to us were excellent. The organisation hires locals which have a genuine passion for the forest as well as for getting to know their guests.
Be warned of the following, the extreme humidity will dampen anything in your possession, clothes worn during the treks will be so dirty they'll never look or smell the same again. Nevertheless, mosquitoes aren't abundant and there is no malaria in this part of the Amazon.
The fact is we we not ready to leave. The peacefulness of the surroundings and the beauty of the area captured us. We've arranged another date with the Amazon, hopefully crossing paths again shortly in Ecuador.
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