While traveling from Medellin to Turbo located on the Caribbean coast neighbouring Panama, we were not sure if we were in a dirt trail or a road, but one thing is certain it was impossible to sleep for even a minute of the 11 hour bus journey.
The adventure didn't stop there, once in Turbo you're welcomed by a river filled with raw sewage with banks covered in plastic bags. Squeezed in a small boat packed with 50 other people we set out for the two hour journey to Capurgana. One of the boat engines broke down and 30 minutes into the ride we had to make our way back lopsided, gliding slowly in 40 degree heat.
So was it worth it? Still not sure. Capurgana is a pristine Caribbean getaway, no cars, horse and cart only, hot and sunny with warm and clear waters. The downsides... tropical and lush means mosquitoes, and far and remote means power outages. With barely 6 random hours of electricity per day, fresh juices are impossible to come by, cold beers are sometimes warm, and when the fan goes out at night in a steaming bedroom and the mosquitoes get to work you wonder why you're there.
The 1.5 hour walk to neighbouring village Sapzurro crosses jungle filled with exotic birds, monkeys, insects and snakes, which Vanessa came within centimeters from stepping on. "Carry a long stick for protection against venomous snakes and spiders", were the wise words of a park worker we crossed minutes after the incident. We much preferred this village to Capurgana, the surroundings are picturesque and the vibe of local residents more pleasant. We recommend staying at Zingara which has one of the warmest hosts we've encountered, Clemencia.
La Miel, a nice beach in Panama is a quick 20 minute walk away, just make sure to bring a passport. Also FYI, traveling through to Puerto Obaldia and onwards to Panama City requires some planning, book your fight in advance and bring plenty of cash (US and Pesos) as it's impossible to withdraw money once outside Turbo. Be prepared, based on testimony from other travelers the trip over to Central America is not as simple as written in guide books, canceled flights, long delays, intolerable heat and unfriendly military personnel are the norm.
La Miel, a nice beach in Panama is a quick 20 minute walk away, just make sure to bring a passport. Also FYI, traveling through to Puerto Obaldia and onwards to Panama City requires some planning, book your fight in advance and bring plenty of cash (US and Pesos) as it's impossible to withdraw money once outside Turbo. Be prepared, based on testimony from other travelers the trip over to Central America is not as simple as written in guide books, canceled flights, long delays, intolerable heat and unfriendly military personnel are the norm.
What an adventure. Thanks for keeping us up to date. Good luck with the rest of your journey
ReplyDeleteHi Trevor, good to hear from you. We've recently just arrived home and looking for our next destination!
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