COPACABANA & ISLA DEL SOL, BOLIVIA

Copacabana, a small coastal town near the border with Peru, is the launching point for visiting the Bolivian side of Lake Titicaca and its main island, Isla del Sol. Besides the fresh trout sold in lakeside restaurants, Copacabana was little more than a touristy stop-over.

The highest navigable lake in the world, Lake Titicaca has cold, clear waters. Clouds seem to barely hang above its surface but somehow find a way to rise over the snow capped mountains spanning the horizon. Isla del Sol, an hour boat ride from Copa, was used by the Incas for religious ceremonies celebrating the Sun God. At this altitude the sun shines hard and during the walk on the Inca trail which crosses the island, encounters with gringos with bright red, sunburned faces is all too common.

We settled for the night on the northern part of the island which has little infrastructure. It was peaceful and quiet with only one restaurant open for dinner and a handful and Argentinians trying to sell freshly baked snacks on the beach. We've grown accustomed to this nuisance encountered in many popular South American vacation spots and we much prefer to encourage the local population than to buy from lingering Argentinians. Most Inca ruins sit on the Northern tip of the island but its recommended to take a guide because the ruins, apart from the large Inca table and fortress, are hard to identify since there is not much information on site.

With no roads or cars the island is an ideal peaceful getaway. We wished we could have spent more time there, preferably on the southern tip which features a better choice of accommodation and restaurants. This was our last destination in Bolivia, after a great three month stay we had to say goodby to a diverse, unique and sometimes complicated country which we've nevertheless grown to appreciate very much.

JUNGLE TOUR, RURRENABAQUE, BOLIVIA

After a two hour boat trip on the river Beni we entered the jungle ready to explore and hopefully get back in shape after spending three days sitting in a river canoe in the Pampas. It was not to be; although we did continuously wonder through the jungle on foot for several hours per day, the mountains of food served to us kept all sense of well being at bay. After 5 days of eating loads of rice, beans, potatoes, and meat, it felt as we could have dumped in the river and floated downstream like logs all the way back to Rurre.

Walks included tracking down the illusive "chanchos salvajes", wild pigs that have proliferated in the forests. The noise and smell of these packs, often numbering more than 100, is impressive and even scary. The guide's eyes lid up when he encountered a pack as he rushed through the jungle, machete in hand, clearing a path and ordering us to a direct halt as we reached it. The packs are often closely followed by a jaguar which was unfortunately always too well hidden to spot.

Our night of camping under little more than a tarp and mosquito net revealed the sounds of the forest, deafening insects and amphibians as well as the site of giant tarantulas peacefully clinging to trees or footpaths. The daytime forest featured monkeys, macaws, and countless other birds. The camping was interrupted when a storm showed up and flooded the area we were in. The ceaseless rain was warm enough not to ruin the walk back to the boat although stepping through the forest barefoot with water ankle high caused us a bit of anxiety.

The tour operator Mashaquipe was above par, accommodations were clean and comfortable, amazing for such a remote spot, and the guides assigned to us were excellent. The organisation hires locals which have a genuine passion for the forest as well as for getting to know their guests.

Be warned of the following, the extreme humidity will dampen anything in your possession, clothes worn during the treks will be so dirty they'll never look or smell the same again. Nevertheless, mosquitoes aren't abundant and there is no malaria in this part of the Amazon.

The fact is we we not ready to leave. The peacefulness of the surroundings and the beauty of the area captured us. We've arranged another date with the Amazon, hopefully crossing paths again shortly in Ecuador.

MATT PEPE CENTRO DE MIEMBROS ARTIFICIALES, LA PAZ, BOLIVIA

We volunteered for one month at the Matthew Pepe Centro de Miembros Artificiales, a non for profit organisation associated with the Rotary Club which provides artificial prosthetic legs for people who do not have the means to obtain one.

Our tasks were multiple, Vanessa spending her time helping on the patient side due to her training as a healthcare professional and I in administrative functions. The bulk of our work ended up being coordinating a visit from another organisation named LIMBS based in Texas, USA who are responsible for inventing the prosthetic knee used at the Bolivian clinic.

During LIMBS's two week visit it was busy time and we learned a great deal about prosthetics and the challenges faced when implementing such devises in developing countries. Also, our stay at the clinic ended up being a great experience in cultural exchange and in observing the difference in methods of working here in Bolivia.

The hospitality received from the local members of the CMA was far beyond our expectations. The managing members of the clinic, who are also volunteers, show a great deal of devotion to the cause and this has resulted in great success rapid growth in the number of patients served. Matt, the founder of the clinic, from the United States, is the driving force and inspiration behind the effort.

After seeing patients first walking in with homemade artisanal limbs and then seeing their reaction when they walk out with a new, modern prosthetic it's easy to see the benefits the organisation brings. It's the first of its kind in South America and hopefully will inspire more to develop in the future. We strongly recommend those who wish to volunteer to give this organisation a close look, and to get in touch with them to see how you can help.

LA PAZ, BOLIVIA

When entering the city of La Paz, located high up in the Andes at a dizzying 3,300 m, the first thing that strikes you are the city's crowded streets filled with vendors selling any type of knockoff clothing imaginable. The frenzy of its downtown creates an immediate level of excitement.

We were told various negative stories of the city relating to security or lack of character but non of them proved to be true. Compact and urban, La Paz ended up having all the right attributes. Its restaurants boasted a cuisine that proved one the best so far. We particularly enjoyed La Coca with its $3 four course lunch menu, La Guinguette a modern French bistro, The Steakhouse for a great JD Steak, La Costilla del Diablo for the one of the best burgers of all time and our afternoon visits to Oliver's travels for a pint and a chat with friendly expats.

La Paz also has a tremendous nightlife, one of the reasons why so many foreigners get stuck there for much longer than they had anticipated. Staying at the Loki Hostel didn't help. Clean, modern but very noisy; after over 10 days of exhausting partying we had to move on to better things.

A weekend side trip to Coroico in the Yungas about two hours from the city revitalised us. A small pleasant town with a tropical climate with coffee and banana plantations is the perfect place to relax. The only down side are the veracious sand flies that come out at dusk and bite pieces of flesh off.

Finally we end with a general warning, Pacenos are "special" drivers. When put behind the wheel in the midst of congested city streets they transform from shy, passive individuals to angry, jittery chauffeurs. Driving in the outskirts, they swerve to the opposite side of the highway, often taking wide curves in the opposite lane of a windy road and keeping that lane for an extended period of time. We could never figure out the reason behind that urge to drive on the opposite side of the road. So if planning to tour the area extensively gather up all your courage and cool nerves or just keep your eyes shut. Better yet, look twice before crossing any intersection, red or green light and if traveling longer distances in the country, take the plane!

CONDOR TREKKERS, SUCRE, BOLIVIA

Condor Trekkers is a non for profit group that organises excursions to the remote countryside surrounding the city of Sucre. We joined a small group totaling six hikers, a local guide, and an English speaking volunteer and set out on a four day trek covering approximately 20 km per day. It wasn't an easy walk by any means, wearing Converse runners and carrying 15 kilos of food on our backs, but the experience was well worth the aches and pains.

The trek sets out high up in the remote countryside of the Cordilleras about one hour outside of the city. During the hike you enter many remote villages in the Andes where most of the population speaks solely Quechua, a local indigenous language.  We visited caves which reveal prehistoric rock paintings and walked across the mountain range through rolling landscapes of parched fields, glacial rivers and barren mountain tops. We particularly enjoyed spending the night in the Maragua Crater and stepping in the footsteps of dinosaurs who left their prints there millions of years ago. The entire region boasts rugged terrain and road transportation is nearly nonexistent in most areas therefore the only way to visit is on foot.

Accommodation consisted of sleeping in rustic lodges with no heating or hot water but overall very comfortable. Sleeping bags and tents can also be provided at no extra cost. Meals prepared by the guide and volunteer where plentiful, tasteful and easily made up for the calories spent walking.

We joined this trek purely out of luck, if it would not have been for the Belgian girls from the hostel who invited us we probably would not have gone. We had a great time with the group of people we hiked with and a great experience with Condor Trekkers who were professional and provided excellent service. We were fortunate to have the opportunity to discover a less visited part of the continent, a part where people's way of life has not changed much in a very long time.

SUCRE, BOLIVIA

Sucre, official capital of the country, is located at lower altitude than most Bolivian cities making the climate much more pleasant. This was a relief after spending a couple of bone chilling nights in the country's south where five alpaca blankets are barely enough to keep warm. The hostal we stayed at Dolce Vita, was warm enough, quite nice, and  good value for the price but the two Swiss owners made the atmosphere a bit too serious and austere.

We were in "luck" since it was carnival time which in Bolivia means getting soaked with water, all day long. For the entire week, people of all ages roam the streets throwing water balloons at anyone in range while marching bands walk the downtown streets playing traditional music. After a week of hearing the same two songs over and over again and being bombarded with water, it really takes its toll on you.

We took Spanish lessons at Sucre Spanish School but were rather disappointed with the results. A lack of course planning and a teacher that kept saying our Spanish was good enough meant that we didn't learn much that week. We concluded that we might be at the point where getting tutored privately in a conversational setting might be more effective.

Nevertheless, Sucre is one of the most beautiful places we've encountered so far. Taking the steep walk up to the Cafe Mirador for the sunsets and catching the spectacular view of the city is arduous but worth it, just as is spending time in the city's many beautiful parks and plazas surrounded by glorious colonial architecture.

TUPIZA & POTOSI, BOLIVIA

Our initial stop in Bolivia was Tupiza, three hours north of Villazon, to ease ourselves into the country and better acclimatise to the high altitude. A small village nestled in a valley surrounded by a dramatic landscape, the town is nice but there wasn't much to do. Many tours of the Salt Flats, Bolivia's most popular attraction, leave from here on a rough four day journey of perpetual sitting in a jeep, something we were not in the mood for.

Instead we decided to head north to Potosi located at 4090 meters of altitude and said to be world's highest city. The road is mostly paved but large sections have been washed away causing the bus to divert into valleys and ride dangerously close to edges hanging over the steep cliffs. The mountain overlooking Potosi is rich in silver and since the arrival of the Spanish it is estimated that over 8 million people have died working in the mines. The mighty mountain has so many tunnel excavations that it is beginning to cave in. Local cooperatives offer mine visits but conditions are difficult and unsafe so we decided to pass. For a good insight into the lives of the miners working in Potosi we recommend watching The Devil's Miner, an award wining documentary that follows the life of a child working in the mines and displays living conditions in the local community.

We unfortunately didn't have the chance to visit the recommended Casa de Moneda, an elaborate colonial building where coins were minted by slaves during Spanish rule. This historic city is truly beautiful but we found that exploring it in the blistering cold and shortage of breath can become an unpleasant undertaking.

LA QUIACA / VILLAZON BORDER CROSSING

The road to La Quiaca, on the northern frontier of Argentina, passes through a scenic and barren landscape high on the Altiplano complete with llamas and mud-brick houses. The town, sitting at more than 3400 meters of altitude looks more like neighbouring Bolivia than Argentina. The border crossing closes early in the evening, therefore if you plan on arriving late book accommodation ahead as choices are limited and can fill up quickly. We stayed at the Copacabana Hostel, which was fine for a night and was within walking distance of the border.

Crossing between Argentina and Bolivia is virtually unrestricted, for short visits you can walk across freely to either side. There are no money exchanges on the Argentinian side so going over to Bolivia is necessary to exchange money.

However, when officially crossing the border passport stamps and all, it's a long and unpleasant process. After quickly getting the Argentinian exit stamp people line up and wait on the bridge separating the two countries, overlooking the murky river and pigs roaming the banks on the Bolivian side. Obtaining the Bolivian entry stamp requires hours of patience and involves standing in the hot sun breathing in the fumes from nearby buses and trucks that are also waiting to enter. Bring water and be prepared to confront people attempting to cut in line!

There is only one desk for entry and one for exit stamps and officials staffing them are not the most efficient. Most Bolivians don't own passports but carry large folders of photocopied ID documents that must be reviewed and verified, making the process painfully slow. After three long hours of waiting, we were finally through.