SANTA MARTA & AROUND, COLOMBIA

Further along the coast, the city of Santa Marta is a recommended base for exploring nearby attractions. Although the city has nothing particularly unique to offer, great weather, numerous restaurants and fun nightlife make it an pleasant place for a few days. We especially enjoyed the atmosphere and comfort of The Dreamer Hostel, even though it's located slightly far from the city center.

Ten minutes outside of Santa Marta lies Taganga, a small fishing village now turned into a coastal holiday destination which is renowned for its party town status. Not pretty by any means, the beaches are dirty, the water occasionally smelly, and most streets are little more than rock and mud paths. For us, it was a place of reunions and good-byes, meeting friends from back home who came to join us, and saying goodbye to Paul whom we had been traveling with for several weeks along the coast. We spent most days relaxing by the pool at La Masia Hostel sometimes finding the motivation to get a fresh juice by the beach or hiking 20 minutes to the nicer Playa Grande across the hill. The restaurant scene in the town is also noteworthy with a great variety which includes a french restaurant Pachamama serving imported cheeses which we might have overindulged in after many months of fasting. Great cuisine and excellent cocktails is enough of a reason to make a stop here.

Less than an hour away lies one of the coasts nicest and most popular natural attractions Parque National Tyrona. Once into the park, on foot or horseback constitute the only means of transportation. The well marked footpaths through the jungle and along the numerous beaches have spectacular views, make sure to bring lots of water since the heat is oppressive. Many beaches are unsafe for swimming because of violent undertows so it's essential to read posted warnings before swimming. We stayed at Camping Don Pedro near Arrecifes beach, located in a wooded area. The other camping site in Cabo San Juan looked more like an open air concert where an unbelievable number of tents had been squished together. We didn't understand why people chose to pay double the price in San Juan and share the one bathroom on site but they surely must have regretted it when the park was hit by a heavy tropical downpour during our last night. We highly recommend the bakery located near the beach not far from Camping Don Pedro, the chocolate stuffed pastry were delicious and large enough for two.

Still further down the coast, about 20 minutes from Parque Tyrona, Costeno Beach Surf Camp features hammocks and bungalows in an isolated and tranquil setting. The 30 minute walk from the highway through the fields and along the beach is very hot, especially when carrying a large backpack. The Caribbean coast of Colombia does not usually offer great waves and this was no exception. Choppy seas, insufficient number of long boards and a pretentious, cliquey staff means we would not recommend bothering with this stop.

Our ultimate destination was the small village of Palomino, about 45 minutes from Costeno beach. Again, a 20 minute walk from the main road was needed to reach the beach and the small hotel Finca Escondida. Running low on cash and no ATM in a 50 km radius, we opted for the cheap and trusty hammocks, for the first time on the trip, instead choosing to spend the remaining cash on the great dishes the hotel restaurant served. The natural beauty of the beach and Palomino's isolated sense make it a unique destination in what feels like a forgotten Caribbean hideaway.

CARTAGENA DE INDIAS, COLOMBIA

Following the return journey to the mainland from Capurgana and the ensuing hectic bus scene in Turbo, exhausted and fed up, we decided to stop over in Monteria. At 35,000 pesos per night for a sleek, modern, air conditioned room, Hotel Centro Monteria was the best bargain encountered in Colombia. When the sun went down we understood why as hookers and drug dealers took over the central part of the city. The lack of security here is a real shame since by day it's very pleasant and boasts one of the nicest central parks we've seen. The park is a tropical oasis set along a river with howler monkeys and sloths which can spotted in the tree-line. The entire area comes alive in the evening when the heat drops and people fill the park to savour ice cream sundaes or cold beers.

The following day we finally arrived in South America's second most visited destination, Cartagena where we got "stuck" for nearly 2 weeks. Having regained access to modern amenities like good restaurants, cafes, bars, grocery stores, 24 hour electricity all within a historic walled city with beautiful colonial architecture in a tropical lively setting who could have blamed us.

We stayed in the Getsemani neighbourhood where most budget accommodation choices are concentrated. Less glitzy and polished than other parts of the old town, Getsemani has many local restaurants and bars, like our favorite Carretera 25, and the popular Plaza Trinidad where every night locals gather to enjoy cold drinks and street food. On Saturdays the square features DJs playing electronic music.

Cartagena ended up being one of our favorite cities on the continent, it's the perfect place to settle in and experience the culture of a truly unique Latin American city. Urban and lively with constant energy, finding ourselves strolling its historic old streets during steaming hot evenings was one of the highlights of this trip.

CAPURGANA & SAPZURRO, COLOMBIA

While traveling from Medellin to Turbo located on the Caribbean coast neighbouring Panama, we were not sure if we were in a dirt trail or a road, but one thing is certain it was impossible to sleep for even a minute of the 11 hour bus journey.

The adventure didn't stop there, once in Turbo you're welcomed by a river filled with raw sewage with banks covered in plastic bags. Squeezed in a small boat packed with 50 other people we set out for the two hour journey to Capurgana. One of the boat engines broke down and 30 minutes into the ride we had to make our way back lopsided, gliding slowly in 40 degree heat.

So was it worth it? Still not sure. Capurgana is a pristine Caribbean getaway, no cars, horse and cart only, hot and sunny with warm and clear waters. The downsides... tropical and lush means mosquitoes, and far and remote means power outages. With barely 6 random hours of electricity per day, fresh juices are impossible to come by, cold beers are sometimes warm, and when the fan goes out at night in a steaming bedroom and the mosquitoes get to work you wonder why you're there.

The 1.5 hour walk to neighbouring village Sapzurro crosses jungle filled with exotic birds, monkeys, insects and snakes, which Vanessa came within centimeters from stepping on. "Carry a long stick for protection against venomous snakes and spiders", were the wise words of a park worker we crossed minutes after the incident. We much preferred this village to Capurgana, the surroundings are picturesque and the vibe of local residents more pleasant. We recommend staying at Zingara which has one of the warmest hosts we've encountered, Clemencia.

La Miel, a nice beach in Panama is a quick 20 minute walk away, just make sure to bring a passport. Also FYI, traveling through to Puerto Obaldia and onwards to Panama City requires some planning, book your fight in advance and bring plenty of cash (US and Pesos) as it's impossible to withdraw money once outside Turbo. Be prepared, based on testimony from other travelers the trip over to Central America is not as simple as written in guide books, canceled flights, long delays, intolerable heat and unfriendly military personnel are the norm.

MEDELLIN, COLOMBIA

Having figured out we can negotiate long distance bus fares, we stripped a few thousand pesos off our tickets and traveled from Pereira to Medellin, Colombia's second largest city. Described as the city of eternal spring, the weather is simply perfect. Hot and sunny during the day, cool enough at night to sleep comfortably without AC, it couldn't be better.

Once home to Pablo Escobar, the city has overcome years of violence and bloodshed and now boasts modern and effective infrastructure. For those interested, there is a city tour and during the afternoon it is possible to meet his brother Juan Pablo. We couldn't be bothered, most relics associated with the man have been destroyed by a government keen on burying and forgetting those tumultuous years.

Most accommodation choices are concentrated in the El Poblado neighbourhood, a wealthy suburb on the city's edge. The effect is demoralizing when you get in, but the quick and modern metro system makes it a breeze to get around. After visiting the downtown center it becomes clear that staying there is not the best option so we made the Black Sheep Hostel in El Poblado our home for the week. From station Acevedo, a cable-car glides above sprawling neighbourhoods not many would dare visit, giving a glimpse in the lives of those whom in the past decade have taken refuge from the fighting in the countryside and are just beginning to have access to basic services.

Medellin has a great nightlife and from Wednesday onwards, La Zona Rosa, within walking distance of El Poblado, is packed and lively. The many original "shot bars" are a must to try. Although not the cheapest of destinations, it was nevertheless a lot of fun!

SALENTO, ZONA CAFETERA, COLOMBIA

The more we rose in altitude the fresher the air became, a welcome change after the hot and polluted skies of Cali.

La Zona Cafetera, where most of Colombia's coffee is produced, is lush and scenic. A quick and easy bus transfer in Armenia and an hour later we were in Salento, the principle center of tourism of the area. Sombrebros and ponchos are ubiquitous, opening and closing hours random, simply a classic image of rural Colombia.

The hike through the Valle de Cocora is a must. The valley hosts a cloud forest and the majestic 60 meter tall wax palms, the official symbol of the country. We rode through the valley on horses with a group of vacationing Colombians we met while having a drink at the town square the night before. The fact that they could convince Vanessa to ride a horse for a whole afternoon through narrow slippery paths testifies to their incredible friendliness, charisma, and persuasiveness.

After a week of drinking to much coffee, strolling through the little coffee farm of our hostel Plantation House, playing tejo, a local game where a rock is thrown across the room at a series of firecrackers resting on a bed of clay, we regrettably had to move on and carry through with the caffeine withdrawal.

CALI, COLOMBIA

The common saying that Cali is a city with an edge is definitely not an understatement. Not long ago at the center of a violent drug related conflict, the city still bears the scars of those troublesome years. It's really a shame since it's vibrant population and it's status as the salsa capital of the world make it an exiting place to visit.

We stayed at Hospedaje Tostaky located on the hilltop in the historic San Antonio neighborhood. The temperature during the daytime is just smoldering but come evening people gather at the nearby park to enjoy the calm, cool breeze from the hilltop overlooking the city. The neighbourhood is relatively safe and very much alive every day of the week. La Colina, an old corner store half transformed into a bar, is a must see. It's been open for over 75 years and they've been awaiting a bar license for a good portion of those years; understand the pace of things here?

We gathered the will and courage to wonder around the city, visiting the downtown and the city's famous zoo which was clean and modern, far exceeding our expectations. As for the downtown, the main reason for its shortfalls appear to be its setup, no mixed use and deserted at night.

We quickly passed through Cali, leaving after only a few days there but relieved to still have all our possessions with us and to be escaping the heat and sleepless nights (at least a fan at Tostaky would have been highly necessary). Nevertheless, we longed to get to know the city better and to immerse ourselves in a place that represents thrilling Colombia so well. Hopefully in the coming years the city will bloom and come to realise its full potential.

IPIALES, POPAYAN & THE BORDER, COLOMBIA

From coastal Ecuador we undertook the marathon bus journey to the border with Colombia. An overnight bus from Canoa accompanied all night long by loud regatone music brought us into Quito at 3:30 AM, not a pleasant time to wander this unsafe city. Waiting until daylight in the tiny Reina del Camino bus terminal we walked half a block to the Flota Imbabura terminal and hopped on the next bus to Tulcan, the only recommended border crossing between the two countries.

A chaotic three hour wait to get our Ecuadorian exit stamp was the last thing we needed after all those hours of traveling. We openly argued with officials that kept on changing the location of entry and exit desks and hypocritical locals that attempted to cut the lines, one of the best displays of absurdity and disorganisation encountered so far. Once on the Colombian side, there were thankfully no lineups and officials were polite and professional.

By that time it was late afternoon and it is not recommended to travel by night in Southern Colombia where armed bandits have been known to highjack buses. Therefore we had to spend the night in cold and quiet Ipiales. Worn and sad looking Hotel Belmonte near the center was fine for a night but not a minute longer. We took shelter from the bitter cold under a giant pile of blankets and waited for morning to head to a better place.

Our wishes came true when we entered Popayan, an old typical colonial town with whitewashed buildings. Again the bus ride to to get there was a journey in itself. The bus was stopped four times by police and military checks, each time picking up, verifying, and giving back the citizenship card of each passenger on the bus while also giving our passports a quick glance. Once a FARC stronghold, the rural southern part of the country remains under strong security. To make things more interesting, a mechanical break turned an eight hour bus journey into a twelve hour one. After a few days in quiet Popayan listening to old vinyls in El Sotareño bar while mingling with locals and getting accustomed to Colombian hospitality, cuisine, and expressions (Que Chevere!) we were rested and ready to hop on the bus, once again.