Further along the coast, the city of Santa Marta is a recommended base for exploring nearby attractions. Although the city has nothing particularly unique to offer, great weather, numerous restaurants and fun nightlife make it an pleasant place for a few days. We especially enjoyed the atmosphere and comfort of The Dreamer Hostel, even though it's located slightly far from the city center.
Ten minutes outside of Santa Marta lies Taganga, a small fishing village now turned into a coastal holiday destination which is renowned for its party town status. Not pretty by any means, the beaches are dirty, the water occasionally smelly, and most streets are little more than rock and mud paths. For us, it was a place of reunions and good-byes, meeting friends from back home who came to join us, and saying goodbye to Paul whom we had been traveling with for several weeks along the coast. We spent most days relaxing by the pool at La Masia Hostel sometimes finding the motivation to get a fresh juice by the beach or hiking 20 minutes to the nicer Playa Grande across the hill. The restaurant scene in the town is also noteworthy with a great variety which includes a french restaurant Pachamama serving imported cheeses which we might have overindulged in after many months of fasting. Great cuisine and excellent cocktails is enough of a reason to make a stop here.
Less than an hour away lies one of the coasts nicest and most popular natural attractions Parque National Tyrona. Once into the park, on foot or horseback constitute the only means of transportation. The well marked footpaths through the jungle and along the numerous beaches have spectacular views, make sure to bring lots of water since the heat is oppressive. Many beaches are unsafe for swimming because of violent undertows so it's essential to read posted warnings before swimming. We stayed at Camping Don Pedro near Arrecifes beach, located in a wooded area. The other camping site in Cabo San Juan looked more like an open air concert where an unbelievable number of tents had been squished together. We didn't understand why people chose to pay double the price in San Juan and share the one bathroom on site but they surely must have regretted it when the park was hit by a heavy tropical downpour during our last night. We highly recommend the bakery located near the beach not far from Camping Don Pedro, the chocolate stuffed pastry were delicious and large enough for two.
Still further down the coast, about 20 minutes from Parque Tyrona, Costeno Beach Surf Camp features hammocks and bungalows in an isolated and tranquil setting. The 30 minute walk from the highway through the fields and along the beach is very hot, especially when carrying a large backpack. The Caribbean coast of Colombia does not usually offer great waves and this was no exception. Choppy seas, insufficient number of long boards and a pretentious, cliquey staff means we would not recommend bothering with this stop.
Our ultimate destination was the small village of Palomino, about 45 minutes from Costeno beach. Again, a 20 minute walk from the main road was needed to reach the beach and the small hotel Finca Escondida. Running low on cash and no ATM in a 50 km radius, we opted for the cheap and trusty hammocks, for the first time on the trip, instead choosing to spend the remaining cash on the great dishes the hotel restaurant served. The natural beauty of the beach and Palomino's isolated sense make it a unique destination in what feels like a forgotten Caribbean hideaway.
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