MUSIC HITS, SOUTH AMERICA 4

For those unaware, the song behind the famous Brazilian dance " la Lambada" originates from Bolivia. The following clips take us through its history, showing the songs metamorphosis and eventual decline.

CAPURGANA & SAPZURRO, COLOMBIA

While traveling from Medellin to Turbo located on the Caribbean coast neighbouring Panama, we were not sure if we were in a dirt trail or a road, but one thing is certain it was impossible to sleep for even a minute of the 11 hour bus journey.

The adventure didn't stop there, once in Turbo you're welcomed by a river filled with raw sewage with banks covered in plastic bags. Squeezed in a small boat packed with 50 other people we set out for the two hour journey to Capurgana. One of the boat engines broke down and 30 minutes into the ride we had to make our way back lopsided, gliding slowly in 40 degree heat.

So was it worth it? Still not sure. Capurgana is a pristine Caribbean getaway, no cars, horse and cart only, hot and sunny with warm and clear waters. The downsides... tropical and lush means mosquitoes, and far and remote means power outages. With barely 6 random hours of electricity per day, fresh juices are impossible to come by, cold beers are sometimes warm, and when the fan goes out at night in a steaming bedroom and the mosquitoes get to work you wonder why you're there.

The 1.5 hour walk to neighbouring village Sapzurro crosses jungle filled with exotic birds, monkeys, insects and snakes, which Vanessa came within centimeters from stepping on. "Carry a long stick for protection against venomous snakes and spiders", were the wise words of a park worker we crossed minutes after the incident. We much preferred this village to Capurgana, the surroundings are picturesque and the vibe of local residents more pleasant. We recommend staying at Zingara which has one of the warmest hosts we've encountered, Clemencia.

La Miel, a nice beach in Panama is a quick 20 minute walk away, just make sure to bring a passport. Also FYI, traveling through to Puerto Obaldia and onwards to Panama City requires some planning, book your fight in advance and bring plenty of cash (US and Pesos) as it's impossible to withdraw money once outside Turbo. Be prepared, based on testimony from other travelers the trip over to Central America is not as simple as written in guide books, canceled flights, long delays, intolerable heat and unfriendly military personnel are the norm.

MEDELLIN, COLOMBIA

Having figured out we can negotiate long distance bus fares, we stripped a few thousand pesos off our tickets and traveled from Pereira to Medellin, Colombia's second largest city. Described as the city of eternal spring, the weather is simply perfect. Hot and sunny during the day, cool enough at night to sleep comfortably without AC, it couldn't be better.

Once home to Pablo Escobar, the city has overcome years of violence and bloodshed and now boasts modern and effective infrastructure. For those interested, there is a city tour and during the afternoon it is possible to meet his brother Juan Pablo. We couldn't be bothered, most relics associated with the man have been destroyed by a government keen on burying and forgetting those tumultuous years.

Most accommodation choices are concentrated in the El Poblado neighbourhood, a wealthy suburb on the city's edge. The effect is demoralizing when you get in, but the quick and modern metro system makes it a breeze to get around. After visiting the downtown center it becomes clear that staying there is not the best option so we made the Black Sheep Hostel in El Poblado our home for the week. From station Acevedo, a cable-car glides above sprawling neighbourhoods not many would dare visit, giving a glimpse in the lives of those whom in the past decade have taken refuge from the fighting in the countryside and are just beginning to have access to basic services.

Medellin has a great nightlife and from Wednesday onwards, La Zona Rosa, within walking distance of El Poblado, is packed and lively. The many original "shot bars" are a must to try. Although not the cheapest of destinations, it was nevertheless a lot of fun!

SALENTO, ZONA CAFETERA, COLOMBIA

The more we rose in altitude the fresher the air became, a welcome change after the hot and polluted skies of Cali.

La Zona Cafetera, where most of Colombia's coffee is produced, is lush and scenic. A quick and easy bus transfer in Armenia and an hour later we were in Salento, the principle center of tourism of the area. Sombrebros and ponchos are ubiquitous, opening and closing hours random, simply a classic image of rural Colombia.

The hike through the Valle de Cocora is a must. The valley hosts a cloud forest and the majestic 60 meter tall wax palms, the official symbol of the country. We rode through the valley on horses with a group of vacationing Colombians we met while having a drink at the town square the night before. The fact that they could convince Vanessa to ride a horse for a whole afternoon through narrow slippery paths testifies to their incredible friendliness, charisma, and persuasiveness.

After a week of drinking to much coffee, strolling through the little coffee farm of our hostel Plantation House, playing tejo, a local game where a rock is thrown across the room at a series of firecrackers resting on a bed of clay, we regrettably had to move on and carry through with the caffeine withdrawal.