SOUTH AMERICA TRAVEL COSTS

One of the most frequently asked questions about long term traveling concerns the funds needed to make it a reality. Based on our experience; rapid inflation, volatile exchange rates and lack of online information in many countries make it difficult to accurately predict costs. In order to reduce the risk of returning home earlier than planned it’s important to keep track of expenses, and if needed, to be prepared to make changes in the manner in which one travels.

We chose to travel in a way in which we would keep many of the habits and relative comforts of our daily lives back home. This involved frequent meals in restaurants, private accommodation (sometimes dorms in larger, more expensive cities), covering large distances in comfortable buses, frequently going out, and visiting famous attractions.

Based on the above, we came to realise that a multiplier of 3 times accommodation gave us a fairly reliable guide to establishing total daily costs. Example: $30 per night accommodation multiplied by 3 = $90 total daily cost. This multiplier can often be reduced to 2 if staying in dorms, choosing hostels that have a kitchen and cooking meals, minimising guided tours, and avoiding going out frequently.

At the end of each month we reviewed our online bank statements to calculate expenditures and to keep track of our spending in relation to budgeted funds. The table below includes all costs (local transport, accommodation, meals, entertainment, etc.) but does not include pre-travel expenses such as flight tickets, insurance, vaccines, etc.

COSTS FOR TWO PEOPLE (COUPLE) IN $US

BEST OF SOUTH AMERICA

Below is a highly subjective list which attempts to categorise and single out some of our favourite places encountered during our year on the road in South America.

NATURE AND LANDSCAPES: Bolivia with its towering mountains and its vast slice of Amazonian rain forest offered the most impressive and diverse scenery of any country. Parque National Madidi in the midst of thick jungle, and the nearby Pampas with its wealth of animals on display offered a unique experience. In complete contrast, hiking the vast and remote plains high in the Andes surrounding Sucre gave us a glimpse of traditional Quechua lifestyle.

LA FIESTA: Buenos Aires operates on a different schedule, eat supper after 22:00, go out at 2:00 and come home at 7:00 when the sun is up and the bakery has fresh pastries ready. This place was made for long and memorable nights out. With many diverse neighbourhoods to choose from and each having its distinct flavour, there are countless opportunities to go out and enjoy the cities vibrant cosmopolitan nightlife. Just make sure to bring plenty of cash because these nights will most likely not be cheap.

LEARNING SPANISH: Friendly Colombia, a country where its remarkably easy to meet locals and to take part in conversations, is by far the most recommended place to learn the language. With relatively few English speakers around in many parts of the country, you're constantly in contact with the Spanish language and given plenty of opportunities to practice. Plus, the beautiful accents of Medellin, Cali and Bogota will facilitate the learning process. Once mastered, speaking the local language will invariably contribute to a much richer travel experience.

BEACHES: The Northeast coast of Brazil features endless soft sand beaches, warm waters, and peaceful beach towns that quickly draw you in. Jericoacoara with its many windsurfers, high sand dunes and a mellow hippy vibe, tops the list. Further south Praia de Pipa with its diverse shops and restaurants, tropical fauna and friendly wild dolphins swimming near shore is a natural paradise. Add to the mix local Brazilians, arguably the most friendly and energetic people on the planet, and you won't want to leave. We visited these places in the very beginning of our travels and they proved very difficult to escape.

FOOD AND CUISINE: Chile, with its heaps of fresh seafood and some of the tastiest natural ingredients, impresses with its cuisine. Unlike the fried food meccas of neighbouring countries or the heavy, all meat Argentinian diet, Chilenos have really learned to incorporate diversity in their diet and to take advantage of their numerous locally produced foods. Pulmay, caldillo, chupe de pescado, ceviche, sushi and even the completos (hotdogs with mayo and a heap of avocado) are all exceptionally delicious. Add great wines at affordable prices such as Sauvignon Blanc and Carmenere and you end up with unbelievable feast.

SURFING: Although we're completely awful at the sport, we nevertheless developed an interest in being amongst the waves. For beginners, Mancora in northern Peru is fun with slow but powerful waves requiring little effort to ride. Just beware of the rocks and coral beneath. In Ecuador, Montanita has a fun beach break that features a section where the waves are smaller and less powerful. For us, Canoa in Ecuador is the perfect beach town, easily accessible, has adequate waves for beginners, is not overrun by tourism and has all the infrastructure to offer choice and diversity of restaurants, bars and accommodation which favors affordability.

SANTA MARTA & AROUND, COLOMBIA

Further along the coast, the city of Santa Marta is a recommended base for exploring nearby attractions. Although the city has nothing particularly unique to offer, great weather, numerous restaurants and fun nightlife make it an pleasant place for a few days. We especially enjoyed the atmosphere and comfort of The Dreamer Hostel, even though it's located slightly far from the city center.

Ten minutes outside of Santa Marta lies Taganga, a small fishing village now turned into a coastal holiday destination which is renowned for its party town status. Not pretty by any means, the beaches are dirty, the water occasionally smelly, and most streets are little more than rock and mud paths. For us, it was a place of reunions and good-byes, meeting friends from back home who came to join us, and saying goodbye to Paul whom we had been traveling with for several weeks along the coast. We spent most days relaxing by the pool at La Masia Hostel sometimes finding the motivation to get a fresh juice by the beach or hiking 20 minutes to the nicer Playa Grande across the hill. The restaurant scene in the town is also noteworthy with a great variety which includes a french restaurant Pachamama serving imported cheeses which we might have overindulged in after many months of fasting. Great cuisine and excellent cocktails is enough of a reason to make a stop here.

Less than an hour away lies one of the coasts nicest and most popular natural attractions Parque National Tyrona. Once into the park, on foot or horseback constitute the only means of transportation. The well marked footpaths through the jungle and along the numerous beaches have spectacular views, make sure to bring lots of water since the heat is oppressive. Many beaches are unsafe for swimming because of violent undertows so it's essential to read posted warnings before swimming. We stayed at Camping Don Pedro near Arrecifes beach, located in a wooded area. The other camping site in Cabo San Juan looked more like an open air concert where an unbelievable number of tents had been squished together. We didn't understand why people chose to pay double the price in San Juan and share the one bathroom on site but they surely must have regretted it when the park was hit by a heavy tropical downpour during our last night. We highly recommend the bakery located near the beach not far from Camping Don Pedro, the chocolate stuffed pastry were delicious and large enough for two.

Still further down the coast, about 20 minutes from Parque Tyrona, Costeno Beach Surf Camp features hammocks and bungalows in an isolated and tranquil setting. The 30 minute walk from the highway through the fields and along the beach is very hot, especially when carrying a large backpack. The Caribbean coast of Colombia does not usually offer great waves and this was no exception. Choppy seas, insufficient number of long boards and a pretentious, cliquey staff means we would not recommend bothering with this stop.

Our ultimate destination was the small village of Palomino, about 45 minutes from Costeno beach. Again, a 20 minute walk from the main road was needed to reach the beach and the small hotel Finca Escondida. Running low on cash and no ATM in a 50 km radius, we opted for the cheap and trusty hammocks, for the first time on the trip, instead choosing to spend the remaining cash on the great dishes the hotel restaurant served. The natural beauty of the beach and Palomino's isolated sense make it a unique destination in what feels like a forgotten Caribbean hideaway.

CARTAGENA DE INDIAS, COLOMBIA

Following the return journey to the mainland from Capurgana and the ensuing hectic bus scene in Turbo, exhausted and fed up, we decided to stop over in Monteria. At 35,000 pesos per night for a sleek, modern, air conditioned room, Hotel Centro Monteria was the best bargain encountered in Colombia. When the sun went down we understood why as hookers and drug dealers took over the central part of the city. The lack of security here is a real shame since by day it's very pleasant and boasts one of the nicest central parks we've seen. The park is a tropical oasis set along a river with howler monkeys and sloths which can spotted in the tree-line. The entire area comes alive in the evening when the heat drops and people fill the park to savour ice cream sundaes or cold beers.

The following day we finally arrived in South America's second most visited destination, Cartagena where we got "stuck" for nearly 2 weeks. Having regained access to modern amenities like good restaurants, cafes, bars, grocery stores, 24 hour electricity all within a historic walled city with beautiful colonial architecture in a tropical lively setting who could have blamed us.

We stayed in the Getsemani neighbourhood where most budget accommodation choices are concentrated. Less glitzy and polished than other parts of the old town, Getsemani has many local restaurants and bars, like our favorite Carretera 25, and the popular Plaza Trinidad where every night locals gather to enjoy cold drinks and street food. On Saturdays the square features DJs playing electronic music.

Cartagena ended up being one of our favorite cities on the continent, it's the perfect place to settle in and experience the culture of a truly unique Latin American city. Urban and lively with constant energy, finding ourselves strolling its historic old streets during steaming hot evenings was one of the highlights of this trip.